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Ingredient X-ray

Glycolic Acid

AHA · alpha hydroxy acid

The smallest alpha-hydroxy acid — it resurfaces the top layer for glow and even tone, working on the surface where BHA works in the pore.

Plum 0.3% Glycolic Acid & Cherry Blossom Frizz Control Serum Creme — a 0.3% Glycolic Acid product from the catalogue
Disclosure · grade C
4of 23 state a strength

Stated strengths run 0.3–8% across the catalogue.

Ease into it

Increases sun sensitivity — daily SPF is non-negotiable while using it.

Don’t layer with Retinol, Salicylic Acid

Why, and what it does pair with, in the layering drawer.

23 products carry Glycolic Acid

How long until it works

First signs: 1–2 weeks (glow). Real results: 4–8 weeks for tone & texture. Reassess: 8–12 weeks.

Raises sun sensitivity — daily SPF is non-negotiable while using it.

Dermatology consensus
Layering — what it pairs with, what it fights

Hyaluronic Acidrestores water after resurfacing.

! Retinoltwo resurfacing actives over-exfoliate — alternate nights.

! Salicylic Aciddoubling up acids multiplies irritation.

Dermatology consensus
What the evidence says — 3 papers

Summaries are ours, written from the abstract. Caveats kept.

Basic chemical peeling: Superficial and medium-depth peels
A practical guide to superficial and medium-depth peels. The trade-off it makes explicit: peel depth drives better results and more complications at the same time — the two move together.

Chemical Peels in Treatment of Melasma
On melasma, this is the useful nuance: peels including glycolic acid are established as an additional or maintenance therapy — a supporting act, not the main treatment for a condition that tends to recur.

Efficacy and safety of superficial chemical peeling in treatment of active acne vulgaris
Pulled together seven studies of superficial chemical peels on active acne. Peels reduced pimples, pustules and blackheads, and nearly everyone tolerated them — mild discomfort, burning, irritation and redness were common; serious problems were rare.

J Am Acad Dermatol · 2019 · PMID 30550830Dermatol Clin · 2024 · PMID 37977681An Bras Dermatol · 2017 · PMID 28538881
How we compute the grade and the value

Grade C: 4 of 23 print a strength. One question — did the brand print it? Honesty, not quality.

Concentration bands: 5% mild · 8% active · 10% home max. typical top 10%.

CosIng (EU Cosmetic Ingredient Database)Dermatology consensus